GRS explained: what the Global Recycled Standard really means
- Feb 1
- 5 min read
If you've shopped for sustainable fashion recently, you've likely encountered the letters GRS on labels and product descriptions. The Global Recycled Standard has become one of the most widely used certifications for recycled textiles, appearing on everything from activewear to denim. But what does it actually verify, and can you trust it?
GRS is administered by Textile Exchange, a global non-profit organisation that develops and manages several of the most recognised textile sustainability standards. The certification aims to verify recycled content in products while also addressing social and environmental practices in production. For shoppers trying to make more sustainable choices, understanding what GRS does and doesn't guarantee is essential for cutting through the noise of sustainability claims.
What it certifies
The Global Recycled Standard verifies three main things: that a product contains recycled material, that this recycled content can be traced through the supply chain, and that certain social and environmental criteria are met during production.
To carry GRS certification, a product must contain a minimum of 20 percent recycled material. Products can be certified at any percentage above this threshold, and the exact recycled content must be stated on the label. This means a GRS-certified garment might contain 20 percent recycled polyester or 100 percent recycled cotton—the certification covers both, but the label will tell you which.
The chain of custody requirements are where GRS becomes particularly valuable. The standard tracks recycled materials from the recycling facility through every stage of production—spinning, weaving, dyeing, and manufacturing—until the final product reaches the consumer. Each facility in the supply chain must be certified, creating an unbroken trail of verification. This addresses one of the biggest challenges with recycled content claims: ensuring that materials marketed as recycled actually are.
Beyond content verification, GRS includes requirements for social and environmental practices. Certified facilities must meet criteria covering worker health and safety, wages, working hours, and prohibition of child and forced labour. Environmental requirements address chemical management, water and energy use, and waste handling. These criteria apply to all processing stages, not just the final manufacturer.
How verification works
GRS uses third-party verification through independent certification bodies accredited by Textile Exchange. This means the organisation making the recycled content claim isn't the one verifying it—an important distinction that adds credibility to the certification.
The certification process begins with an application and document review, followed by an on-site audit of each facility in the supply chain. Auditors verify that recycled inputs match claimed quantities, review transaction records, and assess compliance with social and environmental criteria. Facilities must maintain detailed records of material inputs and outputs, creating a paper trail that auditors can follow.
Certification is renewed annually, with surveillance audits conducted to ensure ongoing compliance. If a facility fails to meet the standard, certification can be suspended or withdrawn. Textile Exchange maintains a public database where anyone can verify whether a facility or brand holds valid GRS certification—a transparency measure that helps prevent fraudulent claims.
The certification covers the entire supply chain from the point of recycling onwards. This means the recycler, spinner, fabric mill, dye house, and garment manufacturer all need to be certified for the final product to carry the GRS label.
What it doesn't cover
Understanding GRS's boundaries is just as important as knowing what it certifies. The standard has notable limitations that shoppers should be aware of.
GRS does not verify where the recycled material originally came from before it entered the recycling stream. A garment certified as containing recycled polyester doesn't tell you whether that polyester came from plastic bottles, fishing nets, or post-consumer textiles. The source matters because different recycling streams have different environmental implications.
The certification also doesn't address what happens to the product at the end of its life. A GRS-certified recycled polyester garment is not necessarily recyclable again. The standard focuses on input materials, not on designing for circularity or ensuring the product can re-enter the recycling stream.
While GRS includes social and environmental criteria, these are less comprehensive than dedicated certifications in those areas. The social standards are based on International Labour Organisation conventions but don't go as far as certifications like Fair Trade or SA8000. Similarly, the environmental criteria don't match the rigour of standards like bluesign for chemical safety. GRS provides a baseline, but brands seeking the highest social or environmental standards would need additional certifications.
Finally, GRS doesn't address microplastic shedding from recycled synthetic fibres. A recycled polyester garment will still release microplastics when washed, just as virgin polyester does.
How trustworthy is it?
GRS earns strong marks for credibility and rigour within its defined scope. The combination of third-party verification, chain of custody tracking, and public database transparency makes it one of the more robust certifications for recycled content claims.
Textile Exchange, the administering body, is a well-established non-profit with no commercial interest in certifying products. The organisation has been developing textile sustainability standards since 2002 and works with major brands, suppliers, and NGOs across the industry. This independence adds credibility that industry-controlled certification schemes often lack.
The requirement for every facility in the supply chain to be certified is a particular strength. Many sustainability claims break down somewhere in complex global supply chains, but GRS's chain of custody model addresses this vulnerability directly. If any link in the chain isn't certified, the final product can't carry the GRS label.
That said, GRS is best understood as a recycled content verification standard first, with social and environmental criteria as secondary features. If your primary concern is ensuring a product actually contains recycled material as claimed, GRS is highly trustworthy. If you're looking for assurance of the highest labour standards or chemical safety, GRS provides a foundation but not a guarantee.
The 20 percent minimum threshold is also worth noting. A product can be GRS certified with relatively low recycled content, so checking the actual percentage stated on the label matters more than simply seeing the certification logo.
What to look for when shopping
When you see a GRS claim on a product, look for the specific recycled content percentage. Brands making legitimate claims will state exactly how much recycled material the product contains, not just that it's GRS certified. A label reading "Contains 50% GRS-certified recycled polyester" tells you much more than one simply displaying the GRS logo.
You can verify any GRS claim using the Textile Exchange certified supplier database. Search for the brand or supplier name to confirm they hold valid certification. If a brand claims GRS certification but doesn't appear in the database, that's a red flag.
Be cautious of vague language around recycled content. Phrases like "made with recycled materials" without specifying percentages or certifications may indicate greenwashing. Legitimate GRS-certified products will state the exact percentage and identify GRS by name.
Also consider what the recycled content actually is. GRS covers many material types, but the environmental benefit varies. Recycled cotton has a different sustainability profile than recycled polyester, even when both are GRS certified. The certification verifies the recycled content claim but doesn't make all recycled materials equivalent.
The verdict
The Global Recycled Standard is one of the most reliable ways to verify recycled content claims in fashion. Its chain of custody tracking, third-party verification, and public transparency measures address the biggest credibility gaps in recycled material marketing. When you see a specific GRS-certified recycled content percentage on a label, you can be confident that claim has been independently verified.
However, GRS works best as part of a broader assessment rather than a sole indicator of sustainability. It tells you the recycled content claim is legitimate but doesn't guarantee the product represents the most sustainable choice overall. For shoppers, the key is using GRS as one piece of information alongside other factors—what the recycled content actually is, how much of it the product contains, and what other certifications or practices the brand maintains.
Sources
This guide draws on the following standards and resources:
Textile Exchange (2021). Global Recycled Standard v4.2. View standard
Textile Exchange. GRS Implementation Manual. View manual
Textile Exchange. Certified Supplier Database. Search database
For details on how certifications factor into our material assessments, see our FSI methodology page.